F.A.Q

Limewash paint is a natural lime-based paint made from slaked lime, water, and mineral pigments. Its composition is simple and ecological — breathable, antibacterial, anti-allergic, and completely safe for your home environment.

No. Despite the word “wash” in the name, Limewash paint is not washable. It is a mineral paint that reacts with water. Touching the wall with wet or greasy hands may leave a mark that cannot be cleaned off. However, it retains its natural, healthy character without synthetic additives.

The best way is to repaint the entire wall from edge to edge. For lighter shades, you can paint a larger “cloud” area, softly blending the edges into the background. For darker or heavily damaged walls, it’s better to reapply the primer and repaint completely. Limewash is stable and doesn’t dust, but it’s not suitable for aggressive cleaning.

Limewash paint has almost no smell — just a light, natural lime aroma. It has the lowest possible level of VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds), making it perfectly safe for children, pets, and allergy sufferers. It can be applied safely in closed interiors.

Limewash paint is completely matte with no gloss. The surface feels smooth — what you see as variation comes from the natural tonal movement of the color, not from texture.

The average coverage is 1 liter for about 15 m² per coat. Usually, two coats are applied to achieve an even, soft look. The first coat acts as the base; the second brings depth and lightness. For lighter shades, a third coat might be needed if coverage is too transparent. Example: for 30 m² and two coats, you’ll need around 4 liters of paint.

One coat can leave harsh transitions and visible brush patterns. The second coat blends them softly, creating the cloud-like Limewash finish. Light colors often need two to three coats for full balance, while dark tones show rich depth after two. For stronger contrast, you can use a darker shade for the first coat and a lighter one for the second.

The Limewash effect consists of soft, irregular tonal transitions that resemble natural patina or “clouds.” It appears due to the brush movement, paint transparency, and contrast with the primer. The paint is semi-transparent, allowing light to reflect through layers, creating depth and variation. The classic finish combines lime plaster + Prep Coat + two coats of Limewash.

Not always. On light tones, it’s subtle and diffused; on darker shades, it becomes more pronounced. The stronger the contrast between the paint and primer, the more visible the “clouds.” The effect doesn’t appear automatically — it’s a result of hand application and pigment transparency.

Light colors: always soft; avoid too many coats to prevent a flat finish. Dark colors: contrast with white primer naturally creates stronger clouds. To intensify the effect, use a darker color for the first coat and a lighter one for the second.

Simply apply an extra coat. Each new layer evens out color variations. Light tones usually need 2 coats; dark tones may require 3–4 to achieve a smooth, even finish.

Use loose, crisscross brush movements — avoid repetitive or patterned strokes. We don’t recommend “painting clouds” intentionally, because they remain visible. Work in spontaneous directions and repeat a similar rhythm on the second coat — this natural irregularity gives Limewash its organic beauty.

Wait at least 8 hours between coats — ideally 12. The surface must be dry to the touch before applying the next layer.

No. Limewash is stable and doesn’t leave marks under normal touch. If rubbed strongly, you may remove a thin mineral layer — this is natural for lime-based paints. During daily use, the surface remains clean and durable.

Yes, absolutely. Many clients do so. Limewash creates soft, enveloping light, so using the same shade on both walls and ceiling results in a calm, seamless space.

Yes. Limewash works beautifully in almost any room. In humid areas or where stains are more likely, a protective sealer can be added. In living rooms and bedrooms, it’s not necessary.

Yes. We can create shades based on RAL or NCS codes, adjust existing tones, or work from photos and inspiration. Color consultation via WhatsApp is free of charge.

No. When wet, the color appears darker; once dry, it becomes lighter and fully matte. This is a natural feature of lime paint — the lime brightens during drying.

The primer prepares the wall for Limewash. It stabilizes absorption, improves adhesion, and helps distribute the paint evenly. This ensures that Limewash bonds properly with the surface and creates a consistent, durable finish.

Prep Coat is a mineral primer produced by ZUBRA COLORS. It was developed specifically for Limewash paint, and only with it can we guarantee a perfect bond and result. We do not test other primers — this one was formulated to match our Limewash system.

It can be applied on gypsum plaster, cement-lime plaster, and existing paints such as latex, ceramic, or acrylic. It adheres well to most traditional surfaces but does not fill cracks or pores.

No, it’s not necessary. If you want a perfectly smooth effect, you can apply a finishing coat, but it’s optional. The best way to decide is testing: Prep Coat + Limewash tester on your wall.

The primer can be applied with a roller, Limewash brush, or spray gun. All methods work well. We personally recommend a brush — irregular crisscross strokes subtly enhance the final effect.

Not necessarily. For dark walls — apply without dilution. For light walls — dilute with 10–20% water. If something shows through after drying, simply apply a second coat.

Average coverage is about 1 liter per 15 m² per coat. Consumption may vary depending on wall absorption. For larger projects or darker colors, it’s recommended to have a small extra amount.

Minimum drying time is 6 hours. Ideally, wait 8–12 hours; 24 hours is best. The primer should be dry not only on the surface but also internally.

From light to dark — Limewash can be applied directly. From dark to light — reapply Prep Coat. If switching back to traditional paint, use Prep Coat as a transition layer.

Only with our Prep Coat can we guarantee durability and result. You may test other primers, but we strongly recommend testing on a small area first. All our color results are based on Prep Coat.

No. Prep Coat is not a filler. It stabilizes absorption but does not repair or level the surface. Fix visible damage before applying the primer.

The wall must be clean, dry, and stable. Remove dust, grease, loose particles, and weak paint layers. Light sanding is acceptable.

Hidden doors prepared like walls — yes. For furniture, MDF, or laminated surfaces, use a special adhesion primer first, then apply Prep Coat and Limewash paint.

Both Limewash paint and primer are applied with a brush. This traditional method creates the natural, irregular Limewash texture. In our collection, you’ll find a special bench brush designed for both small and large projects. Its bristles, length, and angle are carefully chosen to spread the paint evenly and create soft transitions.

We don’t recommend using rollers for Limewash — they change the effect and can make the surface look too smooth. A spray gun can be used only for applying the primer if you have the right equipment and experience. Limewash paint itself looks best when brushed on with crisscross or random strokes.

No. We recommend using two separate brushes — one for the primer and one for the paint. Even after washing, residue and moisture from one product may affect the consistency and adhesion of the next layer.

Our brush was designed to be affordable and perfectly suited to mineral-based products. Soft, flexible bristles hold the paint well, while the width allows comfortable work on both detailed and large surfaces. It’s ideal for primer and paint — just be sure to use two separate brushes.

A double brush has two paint compartments, allowing you to apply two colors at once. This creates a stronger, more contrasting Limewash effect — for example, combining light and darker tones. It’s perfect for accent walls, but it requires skill, takes more time, and uses more paint.

Not always. The technique requires experience and a sense of color balance. We recommend testing on a small area first or consulting with us. In most cases, a traditional Limewash brush and two testers are enough.

Yes. The standard ZUBRA COLORS bench brush is universal, but if you need a larger size, contact us and we’ll help you choose the right format for your project.

No. Limewash paint doesn’t require a sealer — it’s completely optional. All its natural qualities, matte finish, and visual depth are best visible without any coating. A sealer is used only when the wall is exposed to moisture or frequent contact.

A protective sealer is useful in rooms with higher humidity (bathrooms, kitchens) or in areas prone to dirt and touch, such as hidden doors or around light switches. It increases resistance to water and dust.

No. It’s an additional step that can be skipped if you want to preserve the natural Limewash character. Apply it only when truly needed.

Even a matte sealer slightly darkens the color and may add about 5–10% sheen. For this reason, we don’t recommend it if you want to keep the maximum matte, raw Limewash look.

Yes, absolutely. We offer sealer tester samples, and it’s best to try them on a small section first. This allows you to see changes in tone and matte level.

Not entirely. The sealer forms a thin protective layer but doesn’t make the wall fully washable. Strong cleaning or scrubbing may damage the surface.

Clean very gently using a soft, slightly damp sponge without detergents. Vigorous rubbing may remove the sealer along with part of the paint.

No. The sealer creates a thin film on the surface and doesn’t soak into the Limewash structure. This also allows easy removal or repainting later.

For hidden doors, apply the sealer over the entire wall to avoid color differences. For furniture or different base materials, use a suitable adhesion primer first, followed by Prep Coat and Limewash paint.

It depends on the space. In living rooms, bedrooms, or offices — it’s not necessary. In bathrooms, kitchens, or on hidden doors — it can be very helpful. If you’re unsure, feel free to contact us for advice.